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Forum Home > Digiscoping Tips > ANOTHER METHOD OF DIGISCOPING

Posts: 15

with my digiscoping i have been useing a lens attached to the telescope, but now i am useing another method. i attach a t mount addapter to the camera body this screws in like a lens, then this is attached to the threads on the end of the eyepiece on the telescope then you are ready.

i ues a nikon d3000 and digiscoping this way i have to put the camera in manual mode as the menu screen comes up no lens attached which seems to happen with nikon cameras any clues anyone ?. so with manual mode you have to set the shutter speed im finding that f 1/40 - f /100 seems to work but this has to be adjusted up or down according to light conditions ie lower number more light higher the number less light.

im finding this method a lot more harder to get the right shutter speed but with time, trial and error, you will get fantastic sharper images as there is less glass

regards barry woodhouse    www.mydigiscopingphotos.webs.com 

May 5, 2011 at 1:14 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Guido Martens
Posts: 2

I use a T-adapter too, attached to my Canon 60D. At the scope side I use a Nikon ED82A Fieldscope. The T adapter I have fits, I believe, to a Bressler scope. So I had to fix something betweeen the zoom eye-piece (25-56x) and the body of the scope, to fasten the T-adapter to the scope. The canon, without a regular lens, keeps working in the P, A, and T positions, so I dont need to go to manual. Without a lens, the AF function is off course not working, as also the manual focus. The sharp focus is completely done by the fieldscope. And here starts the problem. It is very difficult to keep the image sharp (specially with moving birds), then to take my hands of the scope, and make the foto with a wireless control. There is allways a time gap between manual focussing and taking the picture. besides this, the camera's 'live view' often shows differences (in color, light&dark, and sharpness) with the actual photo. My results are, until now, worse in quality compared to pics taken with my 100-400mm Canon zoomlens. It would be a great thing if it where possible to use the AF function of a lens. So I tried the T-adapter attacched to the filter thread of a f:1,8 50mm Canon lens, and the adapter to the fieldscope. I first focussed manualy with the scope, and I wanted to use the AF of the lens. The idea was that the red signal led lamp would react so I could take the photo sharp with the AF function working. But the lens refused to focus and the motor moved the lens for- and back without end. Also an attempt to manual focus (with the aid of the red led light) did not work. Why? My explanation is that the scope makes views that are extremely 'flat' with no depth at all. And without some depth the AF can not do its work. I would like my pics to be the same as what I see through the scope. I have seen some excellent examples on the web, but It will take much time for me to realise this. All tips you me have are very wellcome.

May 6, 2013 at 2:05 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Dannys Digiscoping
Site Owner
Posts: 372

Hi, it sounds like your connection methods are both suitable but you are falling into the trap of thinking that Digiscoping is the same as conventional telephotography. The reason there is no depth is because of the extreme magnification of Digiscoping. Your 100-400mm lens is designed to work with your camera, whereas a scope isn't. Digiscoping is about making the most of 2 bits of equipment that are capable of producing high quality images but only with time, practice and a bit of help from photoshop. Flight shots are the hardest of all for Digiscoping as often the shutter speeds are to low and yes, the focussing is difficult. Concentrate on taking a few portraits first and really take time to learn how to get the best from your camera when it's on a scope. You have to be prepared to accept that you may not get the desired quality of image to start with, and that understanding any photography takes a lot of time. My best tip for you is keep it simple for now and be patient whilst you are learning how to digiscope :)

I hope this helps, and thanks for your post in my forum

Best wishes,


May 7, 2013 at 1:44 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Dannys Digiscoping
Site Owner
Posts: 372

Oh, and I would not connect using a lens. Too much glass will cut down light through the set up and make focussing harder. You can only use autofocus if the lens focuses internally should you want to use a lens, but I'm not sure any of the small canon lenses do that. 



May 7, 2013 at 1:47 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Posts: 103

Yeah, I know what you are feeling!

I also noticed a big difference between the darkness of the image on the display and the photo that was the end result.

On the Display the image looked perfect, the color tone was good, the bird would be visible, in good enough light to focus the camera using the LCD display.

Then you take the picture and it comes out over exposed, washed out with light.

The effect also resulted in pictures that were not sharp and defined.

I think that what happens is the the shutter speed is too slow. For some reason the LCD screen on the back of the camera does not accurately show this.

So, you think you have a good picture, but when you review it, you find that you have an unsatisfactory result.

This is CRAZY FRUSTRATING when you are starting out.

The main thing that Danny did to help me with this was make me realize that you need to get your ISO as low as possible, and get the shutter speed dialed in to get the right exposure for color depth and sharpness.

The thing about the focus problem you are having..........

I found two issues. One, "In focus" to your eyeball, looking through the scope, IS NOT "in focus" to the camera.

I found that you can not focus the scope with your eye, then slip the camera into place and take the picture without adjusting the focus. It NEVER works out.

So, if you cant see the image clearly on the LCD with the ISO and shutter speed where they need to be, how can you get the scope focused?

You have two options. Use the view finder eye piece on the top of the camera. Or, turn your shutter speed down, so that the image is clear enough to focus, then quickly turn the shutter speed back up and get the picture.

Using the view finder eye piece is much faster and easier.

You just have to play around with it. Try both methods. Find what you like the best.

As for your frustration with moving targets. HOLY CRAP! I think every digiscoper on the planet feels your pain.

But hey, this is not a camera lens with a lighting fast auto focus. You just have to pick your moments, you miss some shots. That is for sure.

Thats the trade off. If you want to take pics from a longer distance, you either have to spend an extreme ammount of money on a super telephoto lens, or digiscope.

If you have unlimited funds, buy the super telephoto, miss less shots, and enjoy the massive benefits of fast auto focus.

If you only have limited funds, are willing to practice ( a lot ), and accept that it is going to be more difficult than a super expensive camera lens, then digiscoping will eventually work for you.

You can do it. You will struggle. If you stick it out, you will get improved results. 

If you want to look at some amazing results, from people who have practiced endless hours, go look at Swarovski Optiks "Digiscoper of the year" contest winners and submissions from the past several years.

The results they get are every bit as good as full blow photography equipment, but they have to work harder for it and fail more often than they would with traditional equipment.

How good can it get if you practice? I just recieved a print that I ordered in the mail.

I digiscoped the image, and decided to see how good it really was. I ordered a 20inch X 30inch ( 50.8 cm X 76.2 cm ) print. It arrived and I expected it to be heavily grained, blurred around the edges, and lack the quality I wanted.

Boy was I surprised. My wife was surprised, everyone I show it to is amazed at how much detail and sharpness you could get taking a photo through a spotting scope. 

Most of the time, I still suck at this digiscoping thing. I get better every time I go out. 

For a while, dont take lots of pictures with the same settings. Take two, change settings, take two more. See what the cahnges do for your pics.

Danny will tell you to take pictures of stationary objects and dull subject matter to learn how to adjust your camera. This is good, very sound advice. 

But, I am impatient, I dont like taking pictures of flower pots. I couldnt do it. 

It sounds to me, that you are like me. This means you are in for a lot of frustration. But you will eventually get there if you keep messing with it. You just pull your hair out trying. 

Danny is a pretty smart guy. He is also very helpful. I have never met the guy, he lives thousands of miles, and a giant ocean away. But I am forever in his debt for the help he has given and continues to give me. 

Listen to him. Dont give up. 

May 8, 2013 at 8:04 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Guido Martens
Posts: 2

Hi. thanks fot your kind replies. You guys gave me a lot to think about. Using supertelelenses is out of the question: they are too exepensive and way too heavy to carry around. One thing I like with photography is 'to catch the moment': you see something which strikes you and you frame it on the spot! Losing time with having to attach the camera to the scope is something I wanted to get rid of. So I did some experiments with pressing my canon with the 50mm lens (AF off) against the eye-piece of the digiscope (without using the T-adapter). I used the P-setting of the camera. So, putting the scope in the right position and fixing the head on the tripod, then focussing with the scope, pressing the lens against the eyepiece, looking through the view-finder of the camera, re-adjusting the focus with the scope and take the picture. To my surprise, the result was quite good, compared to what I tried before. With magnifications from 12x to 20x the light was not bad: f:1,8 speed 1/60 ISO 3200. ISO should be better, although Canon's noise suppression works good. As Danny suggested, I experimented with a fixed object: a dragon at the top of a tower half a mile away from my house.When the magnification is higher (40x and more) the picture gets very dark and speed must decrease to 15x or even less (T-setting on camera). The result is reasonably sharp, but could still be better.

Next week I want to go to Corfu and was thinking what material I should take with me. I use a Canon 100-400 zoomlens for 'closer' pics. I can make a digiscope of it when I use a Lens2scope eyepiece which can be attached to the canon lens. This makes a good scope: very clear and with fine focus. A Lens2scope magnifies 10x, so a zoomlens 100-400 becomes a digiscope 10x-40x. I will have opportunity to experiment 'in the field' at Corfu's countryside. I am aware that 'in the field' and 'with fixed target' makes a world of difference.I will report when i'm back and will post some pics on Flickr. I will try out all of the good suggestions you gave me. Thanks Danny, thanks Muleyman!

May 19, 2013 at 2:16 PM Flag Quote & Reply

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